Indigo Threads: Weaving Stories from the Montgomery Collection

Indigo, both the plant species and the dye, had a global impact in Asia and across Europe, creating a vast commercial network of trade that flourished during the early modern period. A volatile commodity, indigo was prized for its vibrancy, permanence, and clarity. The enduring legacy of indigo is most associated with blue jeans—an indicator that the dye is intrinsically linked to fashion and dress.   

Indigo Threads examines the complex history of the colorant, looking to past consumption and to present narratives. In particular, Japanese textiles from the nineteenth century provide the foundation for understanding the science and the aesthetics of this dye by inviting visitors to look closely at the materiality of these objects. The motifs of ships, aquatic life, and complex water patterns highlight the protective properties of indigo and visually manifest the global voyages these fabrics endured.   

A contemporary installation by the local artist Mili Suleman also orients the geography beyond Japan and pivots the conversation into current consumption practices and circulatory routes of this plant. Indigo Threads offers several perspectives on the indigo plant, such as the long history of global trade, migration, and labor.  

On view on the UT Dallas campus.